News from the corridors of beauty

It’s a hard job but someone has to do it – we do a regular scout across the beauty halls of London to see what catches our discerning eye. Here’s a little summary:

Show Beauty

Show Beauty is the latest entrepreneurial venture by Tamara Ecclestone – daughter of Formula 1 CEO Bernie Ecclestone. Not one to rest on her celebrity-endorsed credentials the heiress has gathered a team of cosmetic heavyweights to bring her beauty concept to life. Team members include experts from Eve Lom, Giorgio Armarni, Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain. She also brought in world fragrance leaders Givauden (the same masterminds that brought us Thierry Mugler’s ‘Angel’, Marc Jacobs ‘Lola’ and Dior’s ‘Poison’) to create the Show Beauty signature scent.

The range features 11 hair styling products geared towards creating volume and improving texture. Tamara was clearly going for an opulent, decadent glamour vibe with the heavyweight packaging, which we think on the whole, she has pulled off. What we also found interesting was that Tamara had resisted putting her name on the brands packaging, but she does feature in the print campaign. The brand has been heavily promoted in UK magazines with both Harpers Bazaar and Elle working in partnership with Show Beauty to create how-to videos.

Touché by Flavien

Touché by Flavien is the hair care brand developed by Flavien Abbas who is probably most famous for the world’s most expensive blow dry. The £230 treatment was available from Urban Retreat where Abbas is Senior Artistic Director. Having worked in the industry since the age of 15 and owning a long list of celebrity clients Flavien has put his expertise into developing a range of products that approach hair care by scalp type rather than hair type. At the heart of the range is Flavien’s key ingredient and USP – Prickly Pear Extract. This precious elixir is known for its rarity and extortionate price tag. It takes over one million seeds and 36 hours to make just one litre of the stuff.

The Berkeley Square Cosmetics Company

In Fortnum and Mason we came across The Berkeley Square Cosmetics Company – a range of traditional toiletries named after the famous London W1 Square. In a nod to Great Gatsby fever, we loved the use of some beautiful illustrations by Gordon Conway across their fragrance packaging.

Conway was a magazine illustrator who lived the high life and promoted the image of a decadent flapper in the 1920s. Her beautiful illustrations are used across the Berkeley Square packaging and embody all that was new and exciting for women in the 1920s.

Azature

Back in 2010 we saw a bottle of Model’s Own nail polish go on sale for £80,000. The bottle featured a cap covered in 1118 diamonds that were hand placed by jewellery designers Frost of London. Not to be outdone Azature, the LA-based jewellery designer who has dressed the like of Rhianna and Beyoncé has produced a bottle of 267 carat black diamond nail polish. Clearly targeted at the one-percenters, the bottle of black diamond nail polish is the ultimate statement. Mortals with slimmer wallets can buy a piece of this luxury at a more achievable price point of £16.

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FUSE Conference 2013 – Chicago

I’m just back from Chicago and FUSE – A conference on design & culture, brand strategy & packaging.

The conference was topped and tailed by two ‘futurologists’. One who predicted the future and the other who essentially railed at the futility of doing so – to say the least a very interesting contrast.

Jared Weiner’s vision of the future saw 10 areas of growth ‘spaces’ including: design, time, inner, micro, inter, green to blue, play, storage and outer space. And that’s only 9 as I count back so I must have missed one along the way.

Magnus Lindkvist quite brilliantly demonstrated that we could only really understand about the future by extrapolating from the lessons of the past. His presentation was all the more compelling for the refreshing confession from a futurologist that “we can’t ever know what we’ll know in the future”.  We all put down our notebooks and just enjoyed the ride; it was as much stand-up as it was futurology.

Jared’s company is a long established family affair and what his presentation left me wanting was a summary of their earliest predictions and whether or not they’d come to pass.

Jonathan Adler Store, New York

En route we heard the ‘potter’ (a term we’ve come to reassess since the emergence of Grayson Perry) Jonathan Adler denying what was obvious for us all to see. His basic premise being that branding has destroyed creativity. But of course what he’s done brilliantly is to create his own eponymous lifestyle brand that I’m sure in time will be a match for Martha Stewart. Albeit provocatively controversial he was still very engaging.

We heard genuinely believable examples of how Unilever is meeting its sustainable living plan (halving its global footprint while doubled the size of the business) from Vice President of Global Design Dennis Furniss and how P&G is winning hearts and minds by saving Mr Clean from possible oblivion; one of those projects that leaves you green with envy just wishing you’d done it.

Inside the conference there was much, much more besides.

But outside the whole country was understandably in high dudgeon at the events in Boston, and Chicago was in rapture to one of the most spectacular storms I think I’ve ever seen.

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Clicks & Mortar

Steve is a regular contributor to Cosmetics Business and SPC magazine. This month he’s discussing how retailers need to help customers understand the link between online and in store shopping in order to ensure that both prosper. To read the full article click here.

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Hair is an art form

Here are our latest designs for the P&G-owned Aussie haircare brand. This limited edition bottle reflects the vibrant street art scene in Melbourne and features across the Colour Mate, Frizz Remedy and Mega product ranges.

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2 sides of the OTC coin

While we await Nicholas Hall’s review of 2013, in his 2012 address he forecast that one of the key drivers of what he called the ‘new paradigm’ opportunity for growth over the next decade would be ‘stronger branding’.

For at least the last two decades branding consultancies have been imploring clients to think far more strategically about how they engage with our industry. Across the pharmaceuticals industry some are and some aren’t.

In fact there’s a growing divide between those OTC businesses that have embraced the opportunity to work in partnership with their branding agencies and those that frankly haven’t.

There are those companies that essentially see the OTC division as a small subset of their business where the values of the parent and their working practices permeate all that they do.

And then again there are those businesses – usually businesses that don’t have their roots solely in pharma and that have tended to have more exposure to classic FMCG marketing principles – where OTC is seen as their reason for existence.

And while it’s an over simplification there’s a correlation between how OTC businesses engage with their branding agencies and where they fall on the spectrum outlined above.

The rule doesn’t always apply and we’ve worked for a number of years for a classic pharma company’s OTC division that at its heart understands branding and how to properly integrate it into its business model.

But on the whole what I think we will increasing see in the OTC category is those businesses that can adopt the deftness of foot of the likes of Reckitt Benckiser, GSK and the recently created PGT starting to pull away from the pack as they use the consumer-centric skills and operating practices that we generally see in more nimble FMCG categories.

We work across both OTC and FMCG and we are increasingly seeing the frustrations of marketing teams within the OTC client community who have been bought over from an FMCG environment to provide exactly that entrepreneurial flair only to discover they’re hidebound by the practices of a traditionally conservative pharm business. And as agencies we likewise find that the relationships are more frustrating. We could be offering so much more in terms of how clients strategically position their brands, how they resolve issues of brand architecture and how they innovate but the relationship is largely seen as client-supplier and not client-partner.

Nicholas Hall predicts that global growth over the next decade in OTC could potentially be 7% per annum. We predict that the lion’s share of that growth will be taken by those businesses that aligning their values and processes more closely to those of a rapidly developing marketplace.

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CosmoProf Bologna 2013

CosmoProf is Europe’s largest trade show exhibition dedicated to beauty and wellness to which we make an annual pilgrimage. With our comfortable shoes donned, we picked our way through the flotsam and jetsam to seek out beauty pleasures and delights.

We can’t pretend we caught it all but we hope you enjoy our latest Open Eye dedicated to sharing our findings on the highly competitive, innovative and wonderful world of beauty and wellness.

Click the image below to read the full issue.

 

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& Other Stories opening

The latest store to hit our high street ‘& Other Stories’ opened on London’s Regent Street this weekend to extreme excitement on the blogesphere, press and Twitter – the audience the brand is inspired by. This new concept is brought to us courtesy of Swedish mega-retailers Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) who also own Cos, Monki and Cheap Monday.

Whats new about the concept? The pricing is mid-range but with high-end fashion aspirations, but the main idea is around cross-selling via related items. Think Amazon ‘If you like this then you’ll like that’ idea and then make it relevant. The look and feel reflects the changing way that consumers buy fashion and beauty, especially the impact of social media and blogging, which allows women to create ‘stories’ around their looks- what they picked up on Ebay, their mum’s 70′s wardrobe, what they spotted in a charity shop and sourced on the high street.

The brand identity is quiet in an understated non-dominating way; handwritten typography mixed with simple fonts all delivered in a classic fashion palette of black and white. This allows the products to do the talking and gives the impression of great value.

The website excellently reflects the brand’s core idea – linking products by ‘story’ – of a fragrance, design style or trend, and has a real blog feel to it.

We checked out the new store on the site of Mamas and Papas old location, just up from Liberty’s. Judging by the lack of stock and queues for the changing room, the opening weekend had been a hit. The beauty department was extensive with a lot of floor space. Ranges were very neatly and easily navigated, with clear differentiation between colour cosmetics, body care and fragrance.

The packaging design cleverly colour codes ranges linked to ingredients and there are suggestions on which products will give you a particular look. The 3d packaging lets it down a little, especially in bodycare where pots feel a bit flimsy and the black lid has an ‘off the shelf’ feel – although this could be construed as utilitarian chic I suppose. The cosmetics range does better with some lovely quirky touches like typography embedded into blushers saying ‘Go girl, seek happy nights & happy days’. A sunken butlers sink where you can freely sample hand washes and shower gels is a nice extra touch referencing other more premium brands such as Aesop.

They also stock other interesting beauty brands including ‘Stop the water while using me’, ‘This Works’ and ‘The Balm’ all of which are super-modern and quirky.

From what we could see consumers couldn’t get enough; the beginning of this brand story starts very well.

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CEW Product Demonstration Evening

CEW is an organisation set up to help promote the professional growth and development of women in the cosmetic industry. Recently we attended their product demonstration evening where brands showcase their products in order to be voted the best in their particular category. It’s a great way to discover new products – here are some that caught our eye.

Astalift is a brand we’d not heard of previously. The brand is owned by technology and photo imaging experts, Fujifilm. Astalift is the company’s first step into the beauty industry where they have applied their current technologies and expertise to the beauty realm. Our first thoughts of the product was that it looked awfully like strawberry jelly but once smoothed between our palms it applies in the same way as a serum.

Yes! Nurse is the brainchild of full-time paediatric nurse Antonia Steven.  Her intensive hand cream was born out of constantly dealing with sore, cracked hands due to routine hand washing with chemical soaps. Her hands became so chapped at one point that she had to take a week off work because of potential infection risk. The hand cream she created is jam-packed full of moisturising ingredients including manuka honey, aloe vera and pomegranate seed oil and is available to buy either as a single purchase or on a bi-monthly delivery order.

Founded in Singapore the Ginvera Green Tea range is a much-loved skincare brand in South Eat Asia. The products are known for their lightweight texture and are formulated from traditional Asian beauty rituals and ingredients. We’ve tried both their marvel gel and BB cream and so far, both impress us.

Despite being launched in Chicago in 1989 we’d not heard of the brand H20+ until the demonstration evening. Their products are based around a unique marine concept where all products are formulated using sea-sourced ingredients, marine botanicals and plant extracts. Their hero product is the oil free moisturising gel.

All CEW members who attended will now vote for their favourite products under different categories. We’ll post our highlights of the winners once they’re announced.

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Inspirational Lunch

 

Here at Dew Gibbons, we regularly host lunchtime talks with people we admire to share our experiences of working on health, beauty and indulgence brands. Last Tuesday, we welcomed Natalie Roche to our Shoreditch studios to talk about her company, Skin Solutions UK.

Natalie has been a fully signed up tanner all her life. She spoke about how having a tan makes her feel and how, early on in her career, she recognised this highly emotional link with the product and its consumers. After years of personal research she spotted a gap in the fake tan market for a product that doesn’t smell of biscuits and give an orange-looking colour. In 2007 she discovered such a product in America and a flight to Texas later, she had secured the sole distribution rights to Xen-Tan, a premium self-tanner with olive undertones and great smell. Fast forward 6 years and the brand is now stocked in Space.NK, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, House of Fraser as well as supplying over 1500 beauty spas and salons throughout the UK.

Natalie spoke of how one of the key concerns when bringing the product overseas was how to position it and market it for a UK audience. She also explained how great packaging, PR and product innovation was key to driving sales to such a highly engaged target audience. She now has 2 brands under her wing, including the phenomenal Glamglow with plans to launch more in the UK market soon.

The DG office was on a complete high after Natalie’s inspiring talk. Her drive and natural flair for sales and marketing is undoubtedly one of the main contributors to her success. We’d like to say a big thank-you to Natalie for taking the time to come and see us.

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A New Partnership

We are delighted to announce we have recently appointed 3 new Partners to the company, to join Steve Gibbons (Founder and Managing Director) and Nick Vaus (Creative Director).

Sophie Hatch (Strategy Director) Sara Jones (Client Services Director) and Michelle Anderson (Business Development Director) have joined them to create the new Partnership.

It’s a fantastic step forward and the Dew Gibbons Partnership have great ambitions and plans to build on the success of the company to provide beautiful and effective design for beauty, health and indulgence brands globally and locally. This is just the beginning, watch this space for more news soon!

 

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